Reaberto em 2015, com a mesma Gerência

quinta-feira, 1 de novembro de 2007

Frankfurt por Jussarita Leite

Este mês o Post do Viajante tranporta-nos até Frankfurt na Alemanha, pela mão da Jussarita Leite. Esperamos que gostem!

CHEGANDO E PARTINDO DE AVIÃO

Após cansativas horas sentada numa poltrona com espaços não muito generosos, cheguei ao aeroporto de Frankfurt, um dos mais movimentados do mundo. Já tive uma primeira impressão desta cidade, lá em cima (dentro do avião), quando pude observar as casinhas construídas lado a lado em quadras (a impressão é de montagem em peças de Lego, tamanha a perfeição).
A demora em chegar foi compensada pelo carinho com que fui recebida pela família do meu namorado, que naturalmente já esperavam que eu chegaria sem nenhuma roupa apropriada para os 5ºC que faziam naquele momento (acreditem luvas e cachicol por mais incômodos que sejam fazem uma falta enorme).
O Aeroporto de Frankfurt fica a 10 km a sudoeste do centro, na Köln-München Autobahn (estrada Colônia-Münich). É fácil chegar ao aeroporto. Há duas linhas de S-Bahn (trens de subúrbio) que ligam o aeroporto ao centro da cidade. A linha S-14 vai até a praça Hauptwache, bem no centro. Os trens saem a cada 20 min e o percurso é feito em 15 min. A outra linha a S-15 vai até a estação Hauptbahnhof, no lado oeste. A viagem leva 11 min. e as saídas são a cada 10 min. O bilhete de ida custa DM 3,70 ou DM 5 nos horários de pico, entre 6:30 e 8:30 e 16 e 18:30. O ônibus 61 faz o percurso entre o aeroporto e a estação Südbahnhof, em Sachsenhausen, em 30 min. e custa o mesmo que o S-bahn.

FRANKFURT
Não tinha neve na cidade apesar do frio e andar por Frankfurt é maravilhoso - o único inconveniente é ter que irar os quilos de blusas a cada vez em que se entra num ambiente. Também não é difícil encontrar turcos pelas ruas e fiquei realmente impressionada com a quantidade deles, até como comerciantes.
Sexta maior cidade alemã, Frankfurt assumiu o papel de centro financeiro internacional logo depois da Segunda Gerra Mundial. Tornou-se rica, moderna, cosmopolita. Não gratuitamente detém o segundo maior aeroporto europeu, o portão de entrada para a imensa maioria dos turistas na Alemanha, perdendo apenas para o de Heathrow, em Londres. Contrário a Münich, por exemplo, que conservou uma atmosfera nostálgica, Frankfurt desenvolveu-se como uma Nova York européia, com modernos arranha-céus , comércio sortido, centros culturais... por isso seu apelido é Mainhattan - um trocadilho pela proximidade com o rio Main.
Existem muitos motivos para conhecer Frankfurt. O principal por ser uma cidade histórica, uma das capitais do império de Carlos Magno, onde mais de 30 imperadores foram escolhidos e coroados. Por ser também o local escolhido por Gutenberg para instalar sua primeira oficina de impressão, além do berço do genial Goethe e da sede do primeiro parlamento alemão. Há apenas sombras do que foi a cidade no passado, mas o que sobrou está bem conservado. Em 1994, Frankfurt comemorou 1200 anos de fundação, com concertos, teatro e festivais de rua.
Frankfurt é também um grande centro comercial e de exposições desde o século XII. Sua primeira Feira de Outono aconteceu em 1240 e, em 1330, foi inaugurada a primeira Feira da Primavera (as duas existem até hoje). A bolsa de ações foi estabelecida em 1595 e ainda é uma das mais importantes do mundo. Os Rothschilds abriram seu primeiro banco na cidade em 1798.

INFORMAÇÕES ESSENCIAIS
Endereços e Telefones Importantes
Saiba mais sobre Frankfurt - Para maiores informações, contate o escritório de turismo, na Verkehrsamt Frankfurt-Main (Kaiserstrasse 52, tel. 069/212-38800). O principal escritório de turismo fica em Römerberg 27, bem no centro antigo, tel. (069) 212-38708. Funciona de segunda a sexta, das 9 às 19; sábado e domindo das 9:30 às 18 (em fevereiro de segunda a sexta das 9 às 18). O segundo escritório fica na estação de trens (Hauptbahnhof) em frente ao trilho 23, tel. (069) 212-38849. Funciona de segunda a sábado, das 8 às 22, e domingo das 9:30 às 20 (de novembro a março, de segunda a sábado, das 8 às 21). Outros dois estão no aeroporto: o Flughafen Frankfurt/Main AG Reisebüro, no Terminal de Desembarque B, no primeiro andar, que funciona das 8 às 21; e o DER Deutsches Reisebüro, no Terminal de Desembarque B6, também de 8 às 21. O Intertreff, para turistas mais jovens, fica no térreo do complexo Hauptwache e funciona de segunda a sexta, das 10 às 18, e sábado das 10 às 14.
Consulado Brasileiro - o Consulado Geral do Brasil fica na Stephanstrasse 3 IV, 60313, Frankfurt/Main; tel.0049-69-290708 e fax 0049-69-290521.
Emergência - Polícia: tel. 110. Bombeiros: tel. 112. Médicos: tel. (069) 795-0220 ou (069) 19292. Farmácia: tel. (069) 11500. Dentista: tel. (069) 660-7271.
Agências de turismo - American Express International, Kaiserstrasse 8. tel. (069) 210-548; Thomas Cook, Kaiserstrasse 11, tel. (069) 13470; D.E.R. Deutsches Reisebüro, Emil-von-Behring Strasse 6, tel. (069) 958-83650; Hapag-Lloyd Reisebüro, Kaiserstrasse 14, tel. (069) 216-2268; Achados e perdidos - Fundbüro Stadt, Mainzer Landstrasse 323, tel. (069) 750-02403; Fundbüro Bahn, na Hauptbahnhof, tel. (069) 265-5831; Fundbüro Flughafen, no aeroporto, tel. (069) 960-2413.
Câmbio - Os bancos funcionam normalmente de 8:30 às 16, fechando de 13 às 14:30 para almoço. Os postos no aeroporto e na estação Hauptbahnhof têm horários mais extensos. Aeroporto: Terminal de Desembarque (Ankunfthalle) B8, das 6 às 23; Terminal de Desembarque B6, das 7 às 21; Terminal de Embarque (Abflughalle ) B, das 7 às 21:30. Estação de Trens: Deutsches Verkehrs-Kredit Bank, na entrada sul, das 6:30 às 22; e no corredor comercial (Einkaufspassage), das 8 às 20.


ARTES
Frankfurt é um centro cultural florescente e os ingressos para os melhores concertos são caros e difíceis de serem conseguidos. Os Städtische Bühnen - teatros municipais - são muito procurados, assim como a ópera. Para maiores informações ligue para o telefone (069)11517 ou procure a revista Frankfurter Wochenschau, disponíveis nos escritórios de turismo.
Os ingressos podem ser comprados na Römerberg 27 ou nos próprios teatros. Outras alternativas são a agência Ludwig Schäfer, em Sachsenhausen (Schweizer-Strasse 28a, tel.069/623779); o posto de vendas na Hertie (Zeil 90, tel. 069/294848) ou no Kartenkiosk Sandrock (Hauptwache Passage, tel.069/20115). Para espetáculos em inglês, tente o Café-Teather (Hamburger Alle 45, tel.(069/777-466), o English Teather (Kaiserstrasse 52, tel. 069/242-31620) ou o Frankfurt Playhouse (Hansaalle 150, tel. 069/151-5835).
O melhor lugar para assistir a um concerto é o Alte Oper, ou antigo teatro de ópera (Opernplatz, tel. 069/134-0400) reinaugurado em 1981 após ter sido quase totalmente destruído durante a guerra. A sala principal conta com 2.500 poltronas e pode ser dividida em duas. No térreo há outro auditório, o Hindemith Hall, com 340 lugares. Vale visitar a ópera, mesmo que não seja durante um espetáculo. Encantador! (fotografia do teatro)
Tanto a ópera municipal quanto o Frankfurt Ballet se apresentam no Städtische Bühnen (Teatherplatz, tel. 069/236-061).
O Festhalle (tel. 069/75750) serve de cenário para concertos de rock e espetáculos de grande porte. O novo centro cultural de Frankfurt , o Künstlerhaus Mouson Turm (Waldschmidtstrasse 4, tel. 069/405-8950) tem uma programação variada, com peças e exposições.

VIDA NOTURNA
A 'rive gauche' (margem esquerda) da cidade fica em Sachsenhausen (acima), atravessando o rio, onde concentram-se bares, discotecas, clubes, adegas, cervejarias e restaurantes. Quem procura agitaçao devem ir aos bares de Apfelwein (cidra) - bem turísticos mas divertidos. Em suas portas há sempre uma coroa de folhas verdes, portanto é fácil identificá-los. Note que a terceira foto mostra um bar no verão, quando eles colocam as maçãs do lado de fora. O cheiro é muito agradável e existe um prêmio dado a quem levar à este tipo de bar (cultivadores, etc.), 5 kg de maçã, recebendo em troca um pouco de Apfelwein.
Outra opção é o bairro Bornheim, com outras tantas alternativas e ambiente mais autêntico.
Os apreciadores de cerveja devem ir à Frankfurter Bierhaus (Schützenstrasse 10), que serve cerca de 50 marcas diferentes. Incoveniente: só abre à noite
Jazz - Os aficcionados do jazz moderno (ou free jazz) devem conhecer Der Frankfurter Jazzkeller (Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse 18a) a casa do gênero mais antiga da cidade, fundada pelo trompetista Carlo Bohländer. Por sua vez o Jazz Kneipe (Berliner Strasse 70) oferece jazz clássico e funciona até 4 da madrugada. O Schlachthof (Deutschhernufer 36-42) tem jazz de Dixieland, barris de cerveja e vinho de maçã. O Sinkkasten (Brönnerstrasse 9) oferece jazz, rock'n'roll, pop e ritmos africanos; às vezes é difícil entrar. Funciona de segunda a sexta das 20 à 1 da manhã e de 20 às 2 nos fins de semana. O Jazz Life Podium (Kleine Rittergasse 22-26) é outra casa de jazz Dixie swing.

HOTÉIS
Eu fiquei muito bem acomodada na casa de Stephanie e Jürgen, no que eles chamam de apartamentos, que do lado de fora parece uma única casa e tem geralmente 3 andares. Dentro é sempre muito grande e, principalmente, bem quente. Todos os dias passávamos algumas horas na casa de Hildegard (mãe), trocávamos idéias e nos deliciávamos com um grande jantar preparado pelo Manfred. Super! Não posso dizer que 'morri de saudades' de São Paulo, apesar de adorar a minha cidade. O que eu realmente estranhei em Frankfurt foram as ruas extremamente silenciosas, você não percebe nem que tem vizinhos. É um pouco triste, mas é claro que o frio ajuda a manter as pessoas sempre dentro de suas casas.

E quanto aos hotéis?

Bem, além de importante centro financeiro, Frankfurt é um grande centro comercial, recebendo milhares de visitantes durante o ano. Por isso a cidade é bem servida de hotéis. As diárias sofrem aumento de 50% nas semanas das grandes feiras. Portanto, se você não pretende participar dos eventos, evite as seguintes datas: de 29 de janeiro a 2 de fevereiro (Première Internacional), de 27 a 31 de Agosto (Feira Internacional de Outono), de 13 a 18 de Setembro (Mostra de Automóveis) e de 5 a 10 de Outubro (Feira do Livro). As datas podem sofrer alterações, então é melhor confirmar antes no centro de Turismo Alemão, em São Paulo, Av. São Luis 71/1ºandar, tel. (011) 256-1054 e fax (011) 259-2852.
Os melhores (e também mais caros hotéis), ficam no centro, entre a estação ferroviária e o Messegelände, o centro de feiras e exposições, e os mais baratos ficam no subúrbio. Como a prefeitura resolveu desapropriar vários hotéis simples para acomodar pessoas desabrigadas, os quartos por menos de DM 90 tornaram-se escassos. A maioria das diárias inclui café da manhã.

Alguns Hotéis até DM 180:
Hotel Pension West, Gräfstrasse 81, tel. (069) 247-9020 e fax (069) 707-5309. São 15 quartos com banheiro. MC. Fecha: no Natal. Ambiente caseiro, localização conveniente (perto da universidade) e preços razoáveis. Fica numa construção antiga e tem um ar nostálgico.
Hotel Post, Bahnstrasse 12, Sindlingen, tel. (069) 37010 e fax (069) 370-1502. Possui 110 quartos com banheiro, restaurante, cervejaria, adega, piscina, sauna, solário e estacionamento. AE, DC, MC, V. São quartos mais baratos são menores, mas confortáveis. O hotel fica num prédio elegante, versão moderna das casas de campo de Hessen, num ponto tranquilo - subúrbio de Sindlingen, perto do aeroporto. O ponto negativo é que fica a 20 min de trem de Frankfurt.
Hotel Kautz, Gartenstrasse 17, tel. (069) 618-061 e fax (069) 613-236. Tem 15 quartos com ducha e restaurante. AE, DC, MC e V. É fácil encontrar o hotelzinho de Erwin Kautz: há barris de cerveja na parede da estalagem que fica no térreo. Os quartos são comuns, mas ventilados e modernos.
Beijos
No próximo mês, o Post do Viajante muda de Continente! O destino será a Amazónia!

80 comentários:

sandra miguel gomes disse...

Estou abismada caa vez mais com os destinos dos visitantes deste blog. Fantástico texto, sem desprimor para ninguem anterior, mas talvez o mais completo de sempre. Dicas, dicas e mais dicas, numa visão exaustiva da cidade alemã. Adorei!

carlos mendes disse...

Mais um grande artigo, num destino europeu de 1ª categoria. Adorei. Não sei porque, mas nunca senti grande interesse nas cidades alemãs, mas esta está magistralmente retratada pela sortuda da Jurassita. Parabéns pelo artigo, minha cara, está sublime.

miguel sarabando disse...

É como diz a Sandra. Destinos diferentes, com toques de exotismo (o do próximo mês então é fabuloso)e cada vez mais completos. Excelente Jussarita, Frankfurt convenceu-me. Já tinha visto imagens da cidade aquando do Mundial, pois a Selecção jogou lá e tinha gostado do que vi.

maria rosário disse...

Magnífico! Mais um fantastico artigo e um destino de eleição, aqui bem perto e com low coast (ah pois, que eu li o vosso artigo sobre elas).

Beijos,

renata ristori disse...

Adorei amiga!
Belo destino, belo artigo, belas fotos. Um must!

miguel tomás disse...

Mais uma para a colecção, que já começa a ter uma diversidade jeitosa. Uma cidade europeia, com aquilo de que gosto: diversidade, oferta cultural, cheiro a 1º mundo, monumentos, enfim um nunca mais acabar de motivos para a visitar.
Adorei faze-lo na vossa companhia. Agora vou arrumar as malas para ir até à Amazónia.

Abraço,

maria clarinda disse...

Adorei Frankfurt. Soube-me bem passear nela, neste fim de semana prolongado:)
Jussarita, excelente artigo, bem detalhado, continuando a grande tradição dos destinos dos viajantes, aqui no blog.

Parabéns

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